I should explain that I live in a small town 20 miles south of the Kansas City metropolitan area. I would estimate the combined population of Kansas City to be around 2 million people, but our first H&M store just opened its doors this past fall and the "new" has not yet worn off. Of all of the stores I have featured to date, H&M has the largest reach with 2300 stores in 43 countries, and it employs 94,000 people worldwide. It is second only to Zara. KC has no Zara store. Production is outsourced to approximately 800 factories in Europe and Asia.
I was surprised to learn that its first non-Swedish store opened as long ago as 1964, in Norway and it has been expanding ever since. Germany is the largest market with 377 stores, while the US boasts just 233. The first American store opened in March, 2000. A flagship store opened in Denver, Colorado, in 2011. Our KC store, I am certain from the cramped quarters is not a flagship.
H&M has worked with a number of designers over the years--Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, Viktor & Rolf, Madonna, Roberto Cavalli, Comme des Garcons, Matthew Williamson, Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Lanvin, Versace, and Marni. In October, 2012, Anna del Russo will launch an accessories collection at H&M, as Paris Fashion Week draws to an end. It will be stocked in 140 H&M stores worldwide...though I somehow doubt KC will be one.
When I visited the store early in May, I tried to keep an open mind. The store is located on the Country Club Plaza which is a pedestrian shopping center where many of the city's designer stores are located. Parking is often at a premium, though we found a spot just around the corner. DH asked if he could wait outside in the bright warm sunshine and people watch as I did my sleuthing. The store was jam-packed with shoppers younger than myself in shorts and flip-flops.
I would have to say that I found the weight and quality of the fabrics to be higher than what I expected, having previously visited F21. Things were not in the disarray I'd found at F21 and clothing was not quite as crammed on the rack; it was often wrinkled, but had some room to breath. I found much of the merchandising to be eye-catching. The store has high ceilings and many of the displays were mounted up high so as not to compete for floor space.
I was astounded by the length of the line for the fitting room. You'll see in some of my photos that the line was 20 people long, though it seemed to move quickly. This was the first place that I have seen men and women shopping together and I don't know whether to attribute this to the fact that the store has a men's and children's department upstairs or if it is due to the nature of the shopping center where it is located.
In response to criticism about unsold clothing that was found destroyed in New York City dumpsters and the factory conditions I described in Wednesday's post., H&M has adopted Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) You'll see it in my video with the window display and merchandise that raises money for HIV/AIDS. Its "Conscious Collection" uses environmentally friendly fabrics like organic cotton and recycled plastic bottles. Leah Bourne, a writer for Forbes, wrote recently, "The brand has also made changes like using lower-impact water-based solvents to make nearly 2.5 million pairs of shoes last year."
The problem as I tried to point out with Wednesday's t-shirt is that when brands are caught doing something wrong, they can point to their corporate social responsibility (CSR) divisions and claim a lack of knowledge of what their suppliers are up to..." (source). Forgive me if I'm a little cynical.
I exited the store after 45 minutes, without visiting the mens and children's departments upstairs. I found DH lounging in the shade with his sunglasses. He told me that he had been approached by an Asian man who wondered if he was a rock star!? And, NO, I did not wear the t-shirt I worked so hard on. Our visit to H&M was a spur of the moment side-track during a Saturday of thrifting. However, the store so busy that I didn't even notice any employees and it was not my chest that others were there to see.
As one commenter pointed out on Wednesday, many higher end and designer clothes are guilty of turning a blind eye to the working conditions of those who manufacture their clothes. I think I need to wear the shirt to every store I visit for the remainder of the Window Shopping Project.
Now, do you own any H&M clothing? Have you purchased any of their designer items? And how might this store compare with the H&M nearest you.
I have always like H&M because their clothes fit me better than a lot of other shops, and their prices are so low. I hadn't known much about their labor laws or practices, though, I should do more research about where I shop!
ReplyDeleteMeri--you are young and slender, H&M's targeted shopper! I wonder if I would have had a more positive impression if I was half my current age...29.
DeleteYou can be as cynical as you like dear Terri, at least your eyes are open, not blinded by the Big Brand-ness of H&M etc. Your take on your window shopping project is so incredibly refreshing. It amazes me when I tell people I rarely buy new - they bat their eyelids in confusion - they must be thinking "well where do you buy from then?" It seems that here in Blogsville, I have access to a huge community of women who rarely buy new. As you well know, I am quite the Black Milk fan and if more people read the story of their origins, they might understand why I believe their brand is worth supporting. I've never been to an H&M, but I did visit Zara in Melbourne last year. It sounds similar to your H&M experience but probably on a larger scale. I felt lost and confused about why people were flocking to this shop with its strangely generic clothing, queuing 50-deep for the change room, or stripping down in the aisles to try crap on. It left me cold ... brrrrrrr. xxx
ReplyDeleteDesiree--You're right that we have lots of moral support for our secondhand habits online, but I have noticed more and more of my colleagues willing to admit that they thrift since the economic downturn. I wonder the same about the generic merchandise in such shops because thrifts seem like such a wonderland to me.
DeleteUnfortunately this time, I could not see the picture show. We have had H & M here for ages, and I have visited a shop only once, when my daughter sent me on a mission. I felt s o lost amongst the stuff all over, that I decided that, that visit would be my first and last one.
ReplyDeleteH & M is very popular over here amongst the young ones. Not for us women of a certain age.
Thank you for sharing your experience with us. Thank you for spending your precious time for this review : ).
Managed to see the " film " now. And I did not see anything of interest on display. Ugh. Might H & M have different stuff for US markets than for Europe? Everything looked pretty much the same, as in your earlier posts on different stores.
DeleteMette--Yes, I think it is a store geared for shoppers younger than ourselves. Believe me, I have had moments in this project when I wonder why I am spending my time doing this...but awareness is better than ignorance and I'm shocked by how wide spread fast fashion has become.
DeleteIt may be several months before I shop my way up the quality ladder and visit a retailer that might interest you.
I find H & M a bit Hit & Miss (!).
ReplyDeleteI have some great pieces from there but I always have to hunt around.It always feels like a jumble sale to me.
Jane--Oh, I should have used your pun as my headline! Too funny. It is an interesting comparison to a jumble sale.
DeleteWe don't have an h&m here...I own a couple of things I got as gifts. Quality seems ok based on the few things I got, and from photos, seems like the stores are much more organized that f21.
ReplyDeleteoomph--yes, this store did not seem as messy as the F21 I visited. And, gifts should be no cause for any sort of bad feeling about their products.
DeleteWe do not have an H & M here which really surprises me...since SA is a major market. So, I have never set foot in one of their stores. Their buyer on the show Fashion Star really seemed to know her stuff and was impressive.
ReplyDeletePam--What is the population of SA? I picture the population as bigger than KC. I may have to see if I can track down a clip of their buyer on Fashion Star. Sometimes I wonder how I can blog without watching tv!
DeleteI've only ever been to H&M in Copenhagen and San Francisco. We don't have one here, I don't think. The San Francisco store was fairly small and neatly laid out. I actually bought a quirky fringed tunic there once (hey, half off $25). The Copenhagen store was so huge and multi-leveled that it was possible to get lost inside and not be able to get back out, and exiting returned us to a completely different street than we had been on when we went in. I did not like shopping there. It was messy and visually confusing and the sections the store was divided into did not make much sense. In general I think a lot of H&M's stuff feels cheap and junky and I don't feel like I'm missing out on much by not having one nearby.
ReplyDeleteCynthia--Give H&M time and they WILL be in your neighborhood! I know what you mean about stores laid out so ingeniously that you get lost inside. That's how F21 made me feel. This store WAS visually busy, but there weren't a lot of item on the floor. You'll notice I wasn't compelled to buy.
DeleteI've visited H&M in the greater Boston area once or twice. Given the hype around this store, I was surprised by how shoddy the quality looked to me. I'm not THAT particular, after all! (I'm frugal, and even when I shop at department stores like Macy's, I often buy from the "fast fashion" end of the floor). I'm not looking for excuses to buy more fast fashion, so I may just stay away.
ReplyDeleteAnne/FrumpFactor--there was plenty of hype in KC prior to their opening. I'm frugal too...and have yet to visit Macy's, although they were mentioned in an article I read just this morning about "pressure" to conform to the current "fast fashion" model. It's depressing.
DeleteMy only experience with H&M has been, like Pam, listening to their buyer on the show Fashion Star. So I was curious to see what you would find when you visited. Fast fashion - triggering the giant supply chain of polyester from China....not for me.
ReplyDeleteThe Corporate Social Responsibility piece reminds me of my work with Drug-Free programs for youth. Budweiser spends something like 1/100th of a percent (peanuts) on their responsibility ads compared to their spending on regular advertising (which many argue are directed at youth - it's been proven that youngsters choose their beer brand at age 8 or so and a very high percentage are loyal to that brand throughout their life). And as we always joked in the business...there is one hell of a fantastic party going on in the background of each of their responsibility ads! So which message are they sending?
I can see the same with H&M and others. It's difficult to hear their words because their actions are screaming at us.
Kitty--I watch no tv and only see snippets of shows online. Part of the supply chain problem with this model of doing business is that it affects ALL retailers...including places like Macy's. I read this morning that H&M flies a cargo plane from Asia once a month to transport all this "crap." Think about the environmental impact of that.
DeleteI want to believe in CSR, but just as in the example you mention, it is too easy to say one thing and do another.
Thanks for this report, Terri. I've only been to H and M in NYC, and there the crowds, noise and utter chaos drove me out pretty quickly. (And I *love* the big city). I have thrifted a few of their pieces and the quality is so-so, really not horrible considering the prices. But their labor practices bring me low, so I am staying away.
ReplyDeletePatti--I don't tolerate crowds in ANY store, including thrifts on 50% off days! I have thrifted just one piece--a spandex tee in a beautiful teal color, but the cut was wrong for me...and I passed it along to a daughter of mine.
DeleteGreat post. I was curious about this company and you provide good info. It's important for us to know where we buy our stuff.
ReplyDeleteAlly--thank you! I suspect it is a place you could shop without any questions asked though.
DeleteI don't go near these cheapy stores because the clothing doesn't fit me right and they don't last very long. When kids are young they do love variety and choices so I think these places are great for the young crowd with more limited funds. Americans will always go for this stuff though. For the most part, I don't think they care to think beyond the price tag. Or think about the poor kids who have to sleep under their sewing machines in 4 hour shifts.
ReplyDeleteBut, like you say, I don't think the higher end clothing items are exempt from buying from sweat shops, etc...and I bet the sewers/factory workers don't get paid anymore for the higher end apparel. Sad.
These posts have really inspired me to only sell my art on American Apparel tees. Thank you Terri!
Joni--I have to agree that H&M might be a good choice for children--they can grow as fast as the 6 week merchandise cycle we see in these stores. If I was young, I doubt that I would consider anything but price...and yet, in the US, I like to think that savvy shoppers would pause and think before they spend.
DeleteI want one of your tees! How can I get one?
I first visited one of their store when I lived in holland 20 years ago and hadbought some of my most favorite clothes back then.Their first store in Greece opened a few years ago and it's very popular but where we live is not one ,yet.Never mind zara will do for me.
ReplyDeleteAngie--Do you still have any of those items from 20 years ago in your closet? Curtise suggested that once upon a time the quality was a bit better than it is now. Zara is not in my area...though I notice references to it everywhere!
DeleteWe have H&M shops everywhere in the UK; the brand used to be called Hennes, and my impression is that it was slightly more expensive and "slower" fashion before the name/brand change (but I may be wrong about that, it was years ago.) Anyhow, I don't shop there for myself at all, no surprise there, and I think the quality seems very variable. There are always major queues and ridiculous shopping frenzies when they have a new designer/celebrity range (I seem to remember seeing images of the rails being stripped bare in minutes when the Stella Macartney collection opened).
ReplyDeleteI've bought stuff for the kids from there, especially in the sales as they often discount heavily, and the quality is OKish.
I just feel utterly disinterested and uninspired by the shopping experience in these places - too much stuff, not enough changing rooms, too mediocre, no assistance, nothing that stands out. But again, I don't think H&M will lose any sleep over my opinions, I'm not who they are aiming at! xxxx
Curtise--I gather that this fast fashion is a phenomenon of the past decade. I worry about its impact on larger and more well-established retailers as they lose market share to this model of retailing.
DeleteI could entirely understand shopping for children there (similar to Old Navy in the US). Kids are hard on clothes and their changing body size can put a pinch on the pocketbook.
Like you, I prefer the treasure hunt of a good thrift store.
I have to admit that I buy a lot from H&M. The first branch opened here (in Copenhagen) in 1969, so I've shopped at H&M most of my life. The quality was at it's worst in the 1980's. It's improved over the years, but it has to match the low prices so I don't see it getting better than this.
ReplyDeleteAs Cynthia said the branches in Copenhagen are very messy! Therefore I do nearly all my shopping online. Especially when they have the limited designer collections for sale! Things are too often getting violent, or close to!
The things I buy are mostly basic items like jersey dresses, socks, t-shirts... Sometimes I'll buy a piece of jewellery, but never the shoes! The quality is simply too low, and they hurt my feet. I buy a lot of clothes for my daughter, and a bit for my husband as well. But online, as I don't like the queues either, and the changing rooms are very small.
For a country of 5 million people, with one of the millions living in Copenhagen we have a lot of H&M shops - around 70 of them. It's like they're on every corner, so buy too much from them and you'll look like everyone else - and who want's that?
Because of their size they have a responsibility to treat their employees right, and see to that their suppliers' employees are treated well too. I like idea that they have started to use chemicals that are less hard on the environment, and recycled materials, but couldn't they do more, and do it faster? The company is huge, and extremely powerful. I think we customers can ask more of them, and should do so. First I'll make a t-shirt and then maybe an e-mail...
Kaffesoester--I suspect that avoiding H&M in your part of the world might be like an American avoiding Walmart or Target in the US. I've not visited Europe at all and did not visit their website...as the focus of my series on the physical stores.
DeleteSomehow the way the shoes are displayed (hanging on racks) suggested that they may not be ones I was interested in. I didn't even attempt to visit a fitting room.
I agree that it's easy to end up looking like a clone, but then blogging brings out our creativity and I've seen it in several of your looks.
Mainly, I want this series to remind readers that shoppers have more power than they often realize. The question is how do we want to USE our power.
H&M has been on a major expansion in my neck of the woods. I go in from time to time but I haven't bought much besides stockings. The clothing is cute but not really cut for me (stockings are stretchy).
ReplyDeleteI think it's worth noting that they don't seem to run on the endless discounting/coupon/sales events model. When I've looked around there my size is usually missing, so if you find something you like that fits you probably need to buy it then.
Their prices are reasonable and if I were a bit slimmer through the waist I'd probably like their wares.
Rose--I liked the wild tights in the display window, but I didn't see them inside the shop. And I agree that women our age are not likely their targeted shopper. I've been unaware of any local advertising by H&M, but then, I deliberately evade so much advertising.
Deletei do own items from H&M, but most of the clothing i own is thrifted...so i haven't actually shopped there in a while. it was hugely popular when they opened at the mall of america here, but now there are 2 in minnesota, and the hype has worn off a bit.
ReplyDeleteTwoBirds--I think I have purchased ONE item in a thrift from H&M, which I later passed on to one of my daughters. It sounds like the crowd on the Saturday I visited may be a passing phenomenon if the twin cities is any indication.
DeleteI don't own anything by H&M. Our nearest shop has strip lighting, mainstream chart music and a depressing array of clothing. It's situated on a retail park and quite honestly I'd rather go naked than shop in a soulless place like that. That chunky silver bangle looked lovely but I can't say anything else was appealing. x
ReplyDeleteVix--As I studied the bracelet, I realized that we have the tools at home to make a similar one. It is of a lightweight tin or aluminum...but it's for a good cause.
DeleteThe local H&M is in an upscale shopping area and there was a lot of hype when it opened so one day when I was there I stopped by. Nothing there for me and nothing in your video would make me go back. That said, I did think it was better looking/kept up that most of the fast fashion stores. It is always busy.
ReplyDeleteDarla (enjoying your series)
Darla--the irony of my video is that the cycle of fast fashion moves so fast that even if you saw something in the video you liked, it would not longer be there by the time you visited.
DeleteI like to shop H&M for very trendy items that I know the trend won't last. That way you're not spending a ton. The first coral/pink skirt in your video is a shirt (I think) I like the crochet cover ups, perfect for days at the beach.
ReplyDeleteLila--I suspect that the "trend" cycles are growing shorter and shorter. I can respect not spending a ton. If that skirt is shirt, it's pretty shapeless!
DeleteYes, Denver's H&M opened in 2011, but I haven't visited the store, even though it's downtown, which is close to my neighborhood. I seldom buy retail, so that's no big surprise. I've been in H&M in NY, but didn't buy anything. So my closets are empty or this brand, and now that you've given us the scoop, they will stay that way. I appreciate the time and effort that you've put into this important project.
ReplyDeleteJudith--I need to spend a day sampling the estate sales this summer. I've never had the luck with clothing at estate sales like you have, but I love going to them...and imagining the person(s) who lived there. They appeal to the fiction writer in me.
DeleteWe have an H&M here in Newcastle, but I'm guessing it's relatively new. I spend more time shopping these days as I do it when Bill is at the running club in the evenings; I prefer to run during the day. I have to say most of the stores blend together in my mind and H&M is one of those. To my knowledge, I have nothing from them unless it came from a thrift shop. I thought a lot of there stuff was cute, but I'm not that sure about 'cute' for me these days; looks pretty young to me. After thrift shops, my next go-to is a local consignment. If I don't find what I'm after there I go to Marks and Spencer. Then John Lewis. Then Fenwicks. I doubt these will ever make it to the US, but think Sears or Penneys and then Nordstroms or the like. I'm rarely that desparate for high dollar (pound) items though.
ReplyDeleteI totally agree about the CSR stuff. I watched my organisation come up with statements like this about employee welfare and environmental friendliness knowing they were pretty useless in practice. I think of them as Brownie badges for the Chief Execs to show off to each other at their little get togethers.
Shelley--I tend to pass on "cute" and prefer "classic" pieces. I really haven't sampled consignment stores enough. I will visit the higher end stores before I pronounce my window shopping project complete.
DeleteHa, I like your "brownie badges" analogy.
As a F21 customer and H&M customer - i agree with you on how they approach merchandising and the quality of their garments.
ReplyDeleteI have been to H&Ms all over - as where i live there is no H&M (just Zara) so when I travel it becomes part of my travel plan.
I have been to H&Ms in DC, NY, Berlin, Madrid and who knows where else.
Lately their clothes are getting more expensive, maybe it is the result of being more conscious ?
If this is the reason, well I am all for it.
Lorena--I have no Zara in my area, but I am immensely curious about it. I can understand stopping in one when you travel. And you are far better traveled than I am!
DeleteYes, I found H&Ms clothing to be higher priced than F21.
I've never had any luck with H&M or XXI clothes, I've stopped into their local stores a few times and I've always been disappointed. My body type does not fit into their clothes, I don't think I am huge but the sizing seems to be for a tinier female than me!
ReplyDeleteI find that H&M is overpriced for the quality and XXI is so cheap that I don't think I could count on a garment making it through the wash. I recently thrifted an H&M shirt that actually fit (snug)I like the style but, after the first wear I noticed a small hole in the front. Now, reading your blog, I know I won't shop there or even thrift those brands.
Thanks for stopping by my blog yesterday!
Thrifted or Scripted--my body type is definitely more mature than most of the young women I saw shopping that day. I've thrifted an H&M shirt or two that I've passed along to my daughters.
DeleteI buy very little brand new but much of what I've purchased new over the last 8 years (my house was struck by lightning and burned down in 2004) has been from H&M. I am now 55.
ReplyDeleteThe things I like best there are the lightweight cardigan sweaters and tops, including basic t shirts both long and short sleeved. I have also bought some skirts and a dress. The H&M cut of pants does not fit my 5'2" short torsoed frame AT ALL.
The kids clothing is incredibly cute and long wearing. I have bought many all cotton baby/toddler items for little grandchildren. It has been sturdy, hip and things that are hard to find in the US like thick, wooly tights and leggings. I even found tiny little Indian bangles for the girls one year.
The criticism of H&M is that the clothes are 'throwaways' but in my experience, they have held up quite well with standard laundering in my own basement washing machine.
Unfortunately, the store closest to me (Syracuse NY) has recently downsized and now has only a fraction of the items it once had. Syracuse has never carried the higher end designer pieces featured in magazines.
Anon--Thanks for registering your experience! I can imagine purchasing basics--a t-shirt is a t-shirt is a t-shirt, although I can also purchase those at a thrift store with less environmental impact.
DeleteAs you'll see from my video, I did not go upstairs...as my partner was waiting. Thick wooly tights would be an excellent baby item, but I wonder if they would be sold in my area.
Why was the Syracuse store down-sized I wonder.